fork service - Page 5 - ZX6R Forum
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post #61 of 75 Old 05-12-2019, 04:11 PM
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Thanks for your quick reply.I,ll get them done tomorrow
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post #62 of 75 Old 05-12-2019, 06:09 PM
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A physical hieght measurement after you thoroughly and fully stroke the cartridge atleast 10 times or until no more air gaps in the stroke (you can feel them) and have also stroked the fork tube through a dozen or so 4-5" full strokes as well then let it sit for about 10 minutes

110mm level of 7w works well on these if running all stock oe components
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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #63 of 75 Old 05-12-2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
A physical hieght measurement after you thoroughly and fully stroke the cartridge atleast 10 times or until no more air gaps in the stroke (you can feel them) and have also stroked the fork tube through a dozen or so 4-5" full strokes as well then let it sit for about 10 minutes

110mm level of 7w works well on these if running all stock oe components
^^^:^^^

Seriously though. Why 110mm? Would that make a softer ride?

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post #64 of 75 Old 05-13-2019, 12:11 PM
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^^^:^^^

Seriously though. Why 110mm? Would that make a softer ride?
Oe set up has a shit ton of spring pre-load built in to them just assembling them, and you can't change that unless you buy new springs...

So they feel super stiff when you are checking sag etc, but in actuality they are pretty soft

having the oil level higher (110mm is a higher oil level than 115mm) actually aids in the "air shock" near the end of travel and slow down the fork speed and usually can prevent you from bottoming them out

the oil level mostly only affects the final 25-35mm of fork travel- everything else (90% of the riding time) the oil level as long as it is sufficient enough, has no affect.......... it is basically adding some progression to the air spring, since there is air above the oil and when you stroke through travel you can't compress the oil, but you do compress the air

There are plenty of bikes that once you add emulators, or different cartridges/valves or springs that you actually want to run a lower oil level than oe
ie.......... some oe are like 90mm oil level, they go up to 120mm with many aftermarket parts so the spring and valving are doing more of the work
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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #65 of 75 Old 05-14-2019, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
Oe set up has a shit ton of spring pre-load built in to them just assembling them, and you can't change that unless you buy new springs...

So they feel super stiff when you are checking sag etc, but in actuality they are pretty soft

having the oil level higher (110mm is a higher oil level than 115mm) actually aids in the "air shock" near the end of travel and slow down the fork speed and usually can prevent you from bottoming them out

the oil level mostly only affects the final 25-35mm of fork travel- everything else (90% of the riding time) the oil level as long as it is sufficient enough, has no affect.......... it is basically adding some progression to the air spring, since there is air above the oil and when you stroke through travel you can't compress the oil, but you do compress the air

There are plenty of bikes that once you add emulators, or different cartridges/valves or springs that you actually want to run a lower oil level than oe
ie.......... some oe are like 90mm oil level, they go up to 120mm with many aftermarket parts so the spring and valving are doing more of the work
Blah blah...experience..blah blah

Jk! Genius. That's awesome info. Packing that away for sure.

I want to troll and find people that battle you....
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post #66 of 75 Old 05-14-2019, 11:31 AM
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fucking troll it all you want

No doubt you can find some fucktard somewhere to disagree

but ask some suspension experts............ then go back and troll the trolls
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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #67 of 75 Old 05-14-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
fucking troll it all you want

No doubt you can find some fucktard somewhere to disagree

but ask some suspension experts............ then go back and troll the trolls
Is this type of thing found in the Racetech suspension bible? Seems like once you understand, you can tweak depending on model of bike.

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post #68 of 75 Old 05-14-2019, 11:44 AM
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Yup. Here's an ohlins chart on how oil level affects travel

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post #69 of 75 Old 05-14-2019, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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......I damaged my seals, installing them. Now I know better.

The question is, can I just replace the seals?

All of the bushings have 70 miles on them. Brand new dust boots, too.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."
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post #70 of 75 Old 05-14-2019, 05:06 PM
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......I damaged my seals, installing them. Now I know better.

The question is, can I just replace the seals?

All of the bushings have 70 miles on them. Brand new dust boots, too.
yes
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post #71 of 75 Old 05-14-2019, 10:50 PM
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The motion pro bullet fitment sometimes doesn't cover the inner lip so it can damage the seal. I wrap electrical tape to the area that is not protected to help with that.
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post #72 of 75 Old 05-15-2019, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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The motion pro bullet fitment sometimes doesn't cover the inner lip so it can damage the seal. I wrap electrical tape to the area that is not protected to help with that.
Yeah, I was pretty disappointed with that. I specifically bought the bullet to prevent that damage. Without having done the service, I didn't recognize the shortcoming in the design.

I find humor in the thought of using a condom over the bullet to smooth that transition.

Electrical tape seems like a good option, Teflon tape seems like it would be better....... Softer, and more malleable. Any kind of tape, seems like residue could be an issue.

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post #73 of 75 Old 05-15-2019, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
Yeah, I was pretty disappointed with that. I specifically bought the bullet to prevent that damage. Without having done the service, I didn't recognize the shortcoming in the design.

I find humor in the thought of using a condom over the bullet to smooth that transition.

Electrical tape seems like a good option, Teflon tape seems like it would be better....... Softer, and more malleable. Any kind of tape, seems like residue could be an issue.
I have never had any residue issue

electrical tape all the way, the cheap stuff even.......... 10 pack rolls for 3.99


it is on there such a short amount of time, sub 30 seconds and the fork tube is cold typically............(room temperature cold anyways)

teflon tape works but you have to double it up and it does tend to roll with the seal, plus it costs more........more cost, more pain in the ass............. fuck that shit, go with the electrical tape!
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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #74 of 75 Old 05-15-2019, 08:16 AM
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Oh, and make sure you grease up the seals prior to install.
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post #75 of 75 Old 05-15-2019, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, and make sure you grease up the seals prior to install.
I even bought, and used the motion pro seal grease..... that $%## gap after the bullet did me in.
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