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fork service

10K views 77 replies 14 participants last post by  RJ2112 
#1 ·
Just ordered up the motion pro cap socket tool, so I can open the forks and replace the oil.... Finally taking the plunge on a USD fork. More to follow when it shows up and I can get on with it.

From the shop manual, the oil change is straightforward enough, once you can take the caps off without damaging them.

It was surprising how much more expensive the Kawasaki tool was, than the Motion Pro tool.
 
#54 ·
Finally back in the garage..... only took me about an hour to get the front end apart. I have the fork legs in hand, getting ready to go round two with breaking them down. Had to come in and rest for a few before i head back out and break the legs open, drain them, clean everything up. Probably another break then, before I take on the seals. More to follow.
 
#56 ·
It wasn't bad. The only concern is the health of my new oil seals.

The bullet I bought did not entirely cover the bushing groove. I ended up pulling the seals over the groove, without it. Everything was greased up, I am hoping one trip over the lip didn't kill them, I was pretty gentle with it.

The seal driver made it simple to seat the oil seals. That wavy retaining clip was a breeze well.

Start to finish, with a break for food, less than 4 hours.
 
#57 ·
Every bike I install new seals on that the seals have to go over that crevice......... I spiral wrap electrical tape real tight from belowe it all the way to the top of the fork, slide (greased lips) seals right over, unwrap the tape and move forward

I never liked those bullets and condoms got too damn expensive for this purpose, not to mention the questions and looks at condoms (new and used)sitting on the suspension table
 
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#59 ·
fork oil levels.

Hi just renewed my seals I have a 2001 J1 zx6r My uk haynes manual states 540cc off oil or 114mm-118mm measure down from the top tube when fully compressed .SO i put in 540cc and when imeasure down the 114mm there is still about 50mm between the oil level and the 114mm measure.My question is should i just top up the oil level to the 114mm height.Your advice would be very welcome Thanks in advance Iain.:O:O
 
#60 ·
Hi just renewed my seals I have a 2001 J1 zx6r My uk haynes manual states 540cc off oil or 114mm-118mm measure down from the top tube when fully compressed .SO i put in 540cc and when imeasure down the 114mm there is still about 50mm between the oil level and the 114mm measure.My question is should i just top up the oil level to the 114mm height.Your advice would be very welcome Thanks in advance Iain.:O:O
I checked the factory manual and it’s 116 +- 2mm from top. So 116mm. With fork oil distance from top is more important than how much actual oil you will add. Depending on how wet or dry the forks are, determines actual amount you’ll add. Actual volume is a secondary result of proper filling. Make sure you’re slowly compressing and releasing, “bleeding” and getting bubbles out.
 
#62 ·
A physical hieght measurement after you thoroughly and fully stroke the cartridge atleast 10 times or until no more air gaps in the stroke (you can feel them) and have also stroked the fork tube through a dozen or so 4-5" full strokes as well then let it sit for about 10 minutes

110mm level of 7w works well on these if running all stock oe components
 
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#66 ·
fucking troll it all you want

No doubt you can find some fucktard somewhere to disagree

but ask some suspension experts............ then go back and troll the trolls
 
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#72 ·
Yeah, I was pretty disappointed with that. I specifically bought the bullet to prevent that damage. Without having done the service, I didn't recognize the shortcoming in the design.

I find humor in the thought of using a condom over the bullet to smooth that transition.

Electrical tape seems like a good option, Teflon tape seems like it would be better....... Softer, and more malleable. Any kind of tape, seems like residue could be an issue.:O
 
#76 ·
In the ongoing saga......

The first seal I installed this time, I had to take back off because I got the washer in the wrong order.

It went on the first time without fuss...... Electrical tape over the lower edge of the bearing groove, the bullet overlapping, a condom over all of that AND lubricant. Perfect. THEN I realized I had the washer in the wrong order, below the seal. I couldn't use the bullet on removal, or another condom.... Just electrical tape to try and prevent damage.

Still had to apply a small amount of force to get the seal past the groove. Apparently, that was enough to cause damage. Even though I lubed everything, and reinstalled with the same technique that one still leaks. Much less than before, but still leaks.

The other leg, is finally correct. Took the bike out for a 100 mile shakedown run, stopped twice to inspect.... One side dry, the other shows wetness on the caliper support. Not soaked,but enough to cause concern.

Not a difficult job..... The tools and process are easier than setting the valves. Just unforgiving of abuse.

Even with all of the stupid things I've done to get to this point, I'd still say it's worth the effort.

I have very little doubt that I can do '09-12 forks in less than an hour correctly, forks off the bike.

This whole thing would be a lot less of an issue, without fairings....
 
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