Jesus Christ help. Horrible top and noise - Page 2 - ZX6R Forum
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post #16 of 58 Old 02-24-2019, 04:13 AM
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Rivers is telling you to go ahead and pull the head. I agree. You have something like a 5% chance that you won't need to.
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"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."
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post #17 of 58 Old 02-24-2019, 04:22 AM Thread Starter
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I know... If the valves are bent I'm Fucked and out of a bike again for at least a year.
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post #18 of 58 Old 02-24-2019, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyingpapaya View Post
I know... If the valves are bent I'm Fucked and out of a bike again for at least a year.
Why?

Getting a competent machine shop to mill the head, and do a valve job isn't going to be many thousands of dollars.... I haven't had to have anyone do that sort of work in a long time so my numbers are wildly low. Presuming you can hand them the complete head, it's not that many hours to do the machining. If the pistons are whacked, and the bottom end is wasted, another motor is far less money. You'll find that out when you pull the head....... or look at the oil as has been mentioned before.

The further you can take it apart, the less hours the shop has to charge you. Eventually you need to know what you can or cannot do. Money is time. Yours costs you less than the shop's time.

If you drop off the complete bike, it's probably totalled. Worth more for the parts than the running bike would be.
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post #19 of 58 Old 02-24-2019, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Flyingpapaya View Post
Looks like it jumped a couple teeth, the timing was off.
If it jumped two teeth I would be amazed if it didn't have some bent valves. I also find it surprising that it would idle in that condition, it was hard to tell in your video but it didn't sound like it was dropping cylinders and there is no way all 4 should have been firing.


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Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
Do a leakage test!
+1. If OP isn't going to pull the head immediately a leakdown test is the minimum to do.


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post #20 of 58 Old 02-24-2019, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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I should be able to get a hold of the equipment for a leak down. Borrow my brothers compressor.
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post #21 of 58 Old 02-27-2019, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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Changed my mind, I'm just going to pull the head.
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post #22 of 58 Old 02-28-2019, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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The manual says drain coolant before. I generally follow what the manual says to a t but looking for some input. Is it required
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post #23 of 58 Old 03-01-2019, 02:31 AM
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Depends on how much of a mess you can tolerate where you're working...... Top of the radiator is above the bottom of the head. When you break the seal on the cooling sytem, what is above that point will drain. Probably into the engine as well as the floor.
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post #24 of 58 Old 03-01-2019, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyingpapaya View Post
The manual says drain coolant before. I generally follow what the manual says to a t but looking for some input. Is it required
I would drain the coolant to pull the head. To check valves you can simply unbolt the rad and drop it forward for access to the engine, but pulling the head opens the cooling system up and will spill coolant all over the place. It only takes a minute to drain the coolant and saves a lot of mess all over your shop floor. Catch it in a bucket and reuse it if you don't want to put new coolant in after.


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post #25 of 58 Old 03-01-2019, 10:18 AM
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If you are actually pulling the cylinder head off the engine, you must first remove the engine from the chassis.

So exhaust, carbs, electrical connections, chain off, shifter off, oil drained, coolant drained (and I would go as far as pouring through a gallon or more of distilled water to clean out most the glycol- because it will still be a mess after draining)

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woohoo we are having fun now
Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #26 of 58 Old 03-07-2019, 04:40 PM
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Just based on what you've said about the timing having jumped, I'd say like others have that it's going to be 100% some bent valves if not broken. I had a slight timing lag on another bike and that one made a nice gouge in the piston head but surprisingly didn't break the valve (but bent the hell out of it). If money is tight (I know how that is), you're probably far better off shelving that motor for a later project and throwing in a low miles/rebuild engine from a forum member or online. It's both a beast of a job if you don't have the tools for a top end rebuild plus the machining costs. Hoping you get lucky though.
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I tend to get things right on the second attempt

Last edited by Brandon35; 03-07-2019 at 04:51 PM.
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post #27 of 58 Old 03-23-2019, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Pulled the cylinder head, no visible damage to pistons or valves. Tested to see if any leaked by filing with carb cleaner, all good except cylinder 1 first intake.
My guess is its just old.

Could I just lap the valve after removing it and reinstall check for leak? I think it's just carbon buildup from age. Thoughts?
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Last edited by Flyingpapaya; 03-23-2019 at 12:01 PM.
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post #28 of 58 Old 03-24-2019, 05:20 AM
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I would clean up the valve first with some Berryman's to get rid of the carbon and see if that fixes the leak assuming everything else looks good, but i'm just a shade tree hack.

@riverszzr is the hero we need for the REAL answer.


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post #29 of 58 Old 03-24-2019, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Aside from buying an actual spring compression tool any of you guys use c clamps to compress a valve spring so I can get to the keepers?
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post #30 of 58 Old 03-24-2019, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyingpapaya View Post
Aside from buying an actual spring compression tool any of you guys use c clamps to compress a valve spring so I can get to the keepers?
I would get an actual spring compressor tool. Unless you modify the c-clamp there won't be much of the foot actually making contact. Good way to damage something or lose parts/an eye.


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