Another Chain/Sprocket Forum - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Another Chain/Sprocket Forum

…Because why not have another one?

So this is just more a record for me/assistance area/garage venting.

Took the plunge into the Pitbull front and rear sprockets. TBH I didn't even realize they made sprockets, and knowing Pitbull the quality has to be over engineered. Did the -1/+2 conversion as I desired just a wee bit more out of her out of some corner exits, and with the Brembo up front I (or at least my bike) will have the appropriate braking confidence.

For the chain, I went with non-other than the D.I.D. 520 ERV3 120 links sprocket kit. All together(incl. Master link) it ran me about $220.


Youtubing and service manualing how to do this, My questions concerns are the following:

Removing the front axle nut

1) How much torque is needed? I have a 48" breaker bar and wife to stand on the rear brake. Enough?


2) What is the part number for the front axle nut and washer? Looking to reorder and OEM nut and lock washer


3) And speaking of lock washer - how does one get a good solid fold on the axle sides one locked down? I image just a flat head screw driver wedging it in there but is there an easier method?


Chain Links:
1) How many does/should the entire chain have with the Master Link?

2) I plan on getting a MoPro PBR kit, however how "flared" should the rivet be? Also when compressing the link together(pre-rivet) how compressed should they be? I know I may jack it up, which is why I ordered 2x more D.I.D. Master Links.

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Hindle Exhaust(Can), SHOGUN FS, ASV shorty levers, Renthal C/O, BMC Airfilter,
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post #2 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PinoyRider88 View Post
…Because why not have another one?

So this is just more a record for me/assistance area/garage venting.

Took the plunge into the Pitbull front and rear sprockets. TBH I didn't even realize they made sprockets, and knowing Pitbull the quality has to be over engineered. Did the -1/+2 conversion as I desired just a wee bit more out of her out of some corner exits, and with the Brembo up front I (or at least my bike) will have the appropriate braking confidence.

For the chain, I went with non-other than the D.I.D. 520 ERV3 120 links sprocket kit. All together(incl. Master link) it ran me about $220.


Youtubing and service manualing how to do this, My questions concerns are the following:

Removing the front axle nut

1) How much torque is needed? I have a 48" breaker bar and wife to stand on the rear brake. Enough?

Usually a lot. Those suckers are really tight on there. To be honest I've never had good luck taking front axle nuts off any bike using any kind of wrench. My preferred way is with an impact. But you can probably do it if your wife can help out.

2) What is the part number for the front axle nut and washer? Looking to reorder and OEM nut and lock washer

Look it up on partzilla, or bike bandit, or similar site. They have diagrams with all the parts and you can order directly from them too. Usually cheaper than any dealer.

3) And speaking of lock washer - how does one get a good solid fold on the axle sides one locked down? I image just a flat head screw driver wedging it in there but is there an easier method?

Yep, just like that. Flat head screwdriver works.

Chain Links:
1) How many does/should the entire chain have with the Master Link?

This I don't remember, but there isn't really an exact number because it depends on where the rear axle sits within the adjustment range. I usually try to go with a chain length that allows me to use other sprockets without having to change the chain. My ZX6R came with 15/45 sprockets. But I had a 44 and a 43 rear which I used. In fact I ended up using the 15/43 combo most times IIRC. So I set my chain such that I could use either sprocket without running out of adjustment, but I have no idea how many links that was. I never count to be honest.

2) I plan on getting a MoPro PBR kit, however how "flared" should the rivet be? Also when compressing the link together(pre-rivet) how compressed should they be? I know I may jack it up, which is why I ordered 2x more D.I.D. Master Links.

This I don't know. I'll shamefully admit that I've never used a rivet master link that I've put on myself. I've always just used the clip style cuz they're easy lol Only rivetted chain I used was on my Ducati but it was the stock one so I didn't do the rivets on the master link.
See above
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post #3 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 07:23 PM
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Strong quality electric impacts are getting very reasonable in price. Buy one.

I always use a torque stick with a dab of blue lock tite on the threads when reinstalling it. I use a 110-125ft/lb torque stick. Works just fine.

Don't need the -1/+2 when you can run a gear lower and essentially accomplish the same thing, but since you got it, roll with it. Use the same number of links as OEM.

Press the new plate on till the press tool ball bottoms out against the chain plate. Watch some you tube videos, you picked an excellent chain riveter and really easy to use once you've done it once. I've used mine a lot over the years. Make sure you always grease on the threads and parts that rotate on one another for maximum life. Also, use an angle grinder and grind off the old riveted master link (or just cut it in half to remove the chain, that's what I do). No sense in straining the PBR for something that can't be re-used anyways.

Don't be that guy using clip on master links on a 600cc+ super sport. Just no.
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post #4 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 07:36 PM
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Don't be that guy using clip on master links on a 600cc+ super sport. Just no.
When I got my ZX6R, the clip on the master link had actually fallen off and the previous owner safety wired both of the pins lol (basically he tied safety wire in the little groove that the clip would normally sit in on the pins). I was always sketched out by that but I ran it for 2 seasons with no issue lol

But yeah...rivets are better. Don't do what I and the previous owner of my bike did lol

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post #5 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 07:51 PM
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The chain should come with instructions on how far to press the rivets. You’ll need to measure the river as you press it. The head will expand, and there is a measurement for how large it should be, once expanded properly. I THINK you can measure one of the non-master link rivets, and press until it matches.

When I say measure, I mean with a caliper.

I had to spend ~170 US on a Milwaukee electric impact. I was literally, lifting the bike off the ground with a 1/2” breaker bar, and four feet of pipe on the end. Impact took it off in about half a second.

I also replaced my nut, since I kinda destroyed part of it, before I got the impact. Partzilla, all the way.

For number of links, I think gearing commander dot com may have a calculator.
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PinoyRider88 View Post
…Because why not have another one?

So this is just more a record for me/assistance area/garage venting.

Took the plunge into the Pitbull front and rear sprockets. TBH I didn't even realize they made sprockets, and knowing Pitbull the quality has to be over engineered. Did the -1/+2 conversion as I desired just a wee bit more out of her out of some corner exits, and with the Brembo up front I (or at least my bike) will have the appropriate braking confidence.

For the chain, I went with non-other than the D.I.D. 520 ERV3 120 links sprocket kit. All together(incl. Master link) it ran me about $220.


Youtubing and service manualing how to do this, My questions concerns are the following:

Removing the front axle nut

1) How much torque is needed? I have a 48" breaker bar and wife to stand on the rear brake. Enough?


2) What is the part number for the front axle nut and washer? Looking to reorder and OEM nut and lock washer


3) And speaking of lock washer - how does one get a good solid fold on the axle sides one locked down? I image just a flat head screw driver wedging it in there but is there an easier method?


Chain Links:
1) How many does/should the entire chain have with the Master Link?

2) I plan on getting a MoPro PBR kit, however how "flared" should the rivet be? Also when compressing the link together(pre-rivet) how compressed should they be? I know I may jack it up, which is why I ordered 2x more D.I.D. Master Links.
Why do you keep referring to the countershaft sprocket and nut as the front axle?
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Why do you keep referring to the countershaft sprocket and nut as the front axle?
Omg @Duc995 thanks for pointing out my nooby verbiage. I expect @ZedExMuse to scold me on this dramatic error lol.

Now as far as procuring an impact wrench, for the "counter shaft sprocket nut" I may consider just handing it to the shop. I dont change the chain often enough to justify the procurement of a big boy electric impact drill, big boy battery(for max torque) and MotionPro PBR tool.

Time to put the Pitbull TRS to her first test
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post #8 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 08:28 AM
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Bought my impact wrench from Harbor Freight, its good but wouldn't get the axel nut off my Honda Metropolitan. A good dose of liquid wrench and a few days and it came off just fine. But wait you said front axel ...... :-)

More seriously I did this on my old FZ6 several years ago. First thing Id do is hit the nut with some Liquid Wrench or equivalent. I didn't have an impact wrench or maybe that's why I bought the HF one, but didn't have too much trouble with it. With the Cycle Gear chain tool I didn't't have any trouble getting a rivet out or re riveting the new link. The hardest part was putting the new chain on and getting the link in. I finally resorted to a big zip tie thru a couple of links to pull it together. As for riveting the rivet that was easy. I used a caliper to measure the flair. Someone on DID's site I found the specs for rivet flair. Not a difficult job in my book, Id at least take a shot at getting the nut off (working hard to resist calling it front axel nut).
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post #9 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 09:36 AM
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Why do you keep referring to the countershaft sprocket and nut as the front axle?
Dude. I was scratching my fooking head trying to picture what axel he was talking about LMAO.

That did not translate well in my little brain.

On the other hand this is a good thread that gives me a little more reassurance when I decide to tackle replacing chain and sprockets myself. I too was looking at the harbor freight impact since it's cheap and should be affective.

I have also read else where about a Porter Cable PCE211 impact for $75 on amazon that gets the job done too. I might even check that one out as from my quick research it has more torque than the one Harbor freight offers for $129
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 09:49 AM
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Here's a good pic of the rivet flares

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JL99

Last edited by jd41; 01-17-2019 at 09:56 AM.
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post #11 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 01:31 PM
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Here's a good pic of the rivet flares

Good visual!!

I measure them as I flare them with the flaring tool......... .010" is more than adequate, anything more and it actually starts to push the sideplate in more
and with a too tight side plate usually it breaks the oring/xring in short order and/or has a tight spot in the chain right there....



Caliper to measure the chain width across a clean plate
then measure how far on your are pressing the new master link- ( I stop @ .001"-.002" wider since it will move tighter)
then when flaring the rivets.......... don't over do them!!! .010" is way more than enough, really I bet even .002" would hold forever just you can't get the "look" of it being correct at that

buy an impact or borrow one to remove the c/s sprocket nut and you shouldn't need a new nut or washer (washer replace if already done more than once)
if you are going to do it by hand.......... make sure you are pushing down not lifting up on breaker bar- you do not want to lift the bike off the rear stand and have it fall over!!! and make sure you have the lock washer pushed completely off and use the correct size metric socket aligned square and all the way on!!

woohoo we are having fun now
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post #12 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a good pic of the rivet flares



Soooooo what you're saying is...it shouldn't look like this.

The above may be the last chain I have installed by a other shop that I no longer use. But hey 8000 miles later and 10 NoviceAF Trackdays later it's there. But obviously needs to go...or does it?

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post #13 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 02:52 PM
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That bottom rivet looks like it’s already in the process of failing. I’d err on the side of caution, considering the damage a chain can do, when it breaks.
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post #14 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by PinoyRider88 View Post
Soooooo what you're saying is...it shouldn't look like this.

The above may be the last chain I have installed by a other shop that I no longer use. But hey 8000 miles later and 10 NoviceAF Trackdays later it's there. But obviously needs to go...or does it?
Both flares are cracked. Terrible.

That's why it's better to learn how to do it yourself or go to a reputable shop. I wouldn't take the risk of it snapping and having to spend much much more on a cracked engine case.

JL99
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post #15 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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That bottom rivet looks like it’s already in the process of failing. I’d err on the side of caution, considering the damage a chain can do, when it breaks.
Like(up to and including) kill me?

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