Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Forum banner

My '96 Rebuild

19K views 223 replies 11 participants last post by  Brandon35 
#1 · (Edited)
'96 Rebuild

Hey guys, been a while. So, after a long time coming, I was finally able to start my rebuild. She’s come a long way since the start but I figured while I wait for more parts (and money) I’d post about it.

Quick history - bought the bike 6 years ago, found out it had a LOT of issues, started to fix a few things here and there, turns out I was really good with zip ties. Bike was in at least one bad front end accident (no steering stop, small crack in frame). She had the scars to prove it. So much so that I’ve never considered taking her to a shop to get looked at because I would have been pretty embarrassed. Anyways, this last couple of weeks I had some free time (yay Thanksgiving) and set about a teardown. I’ve had second gear issues for a while now.

So, I start to break down the bike. Crappy fairings off, took the airbox and carb off (everything was filthy and the throttle springs were covered in filth). Then I freed up all the electricals and took the whole harness out. Had to make some cuts and I’ll connect those back up for the tail/blinkers later. Then came the engine. I had no lift, so I paid $1 at Lowes to take 3 pieces of old wood from a trash can and made an engine holder out of it. It’s actually held up quite nicely. Once I had the engine out, I stripped the frame all the way down and cleaned EVERYTHING. She had 22 years of road grime in all her nooks and crannies. I used Nylon brushes and my favorite degreaser (La’s Awesome Degreaser is really awesome) to do it right. I’ll list off the fixes/upgrades I’ve done so far and leave pictures for those of you who can’t read ?

-Re-wrapped seats

-Cleaned Engine


-Rewrapped wire harness
-New fork oil, caps and seals (pretty sure it had original oil and boy, it was solid)
-New (to me) left fork
-Had the frame crack welded and I grinded it
-Had the steering stop re-welded on
-Polished yoke

-Painted the entire frame satin black


-Painted my rims white


-Cleaned out all my brake calipers
-New brake pads (new rear seal kit coming)


-Stainless steel lines front and rear (used off a working race bike - haters gonna hate)


-All new engine cover Cometic gaskets
-New (to me) drive shaft/gears and clutch shaft forks (I split the case)

-Driven racing engine block-off plates





What’s to come -
-2006 zx6r throttle tube assembly/cables
-Slim kill/start switch
-Steel extension plates for my zzr600 fairing stay (bird cage delete) so handle bars don’t hit
-New tires (I’m thinking Dunlop Q3+ ?)
-Safety wiring
-Race fairings down the road (belly pan w/oil catch) ~ when money allows :nerd
-Airbox/tubing upgrade ~ when money allows
 
See less See more
16
#44 ·
For anyone who was keeping an eye on this post, I'm keeping the bike and decided to break down the engine again. Broke it all the way down to the cylinders and replaced the entire crank case (upper and lower). Working on a fix for my lean/lagging issue and waiting for my new exhaust can to come in before I post the big update and all the pictures. I've touched every part on the inside of this engine now. Keep an eye out for the update.
 
#45 ·
Figured out my problem and you can see it on my thread below

https://www.zx6r.com/mechanical-technical/113832-engine-lag-stall-help.html

Just waiting on my exhaust can and the last hose for my coolant system (long story short, don't deal with AS3 Performance if you are on a tight schedule and want the correct parts with the correct dimensions [which mine were not] sent the first time). Hopefully this will all be in soon and I will upload all the pictures I have and maybe this time they wont break/get lost/disappear.
 
#46 ·
Quick update while I wait for parts. Cleaned the garage today and have a pile of old parts with material defects that I wont be selling. I’ll try and find a recycle center that maybe buys bulk metal or something fir cheap, we’ll see. I also have a left hand fork sitting by my tools. Only thing in this pule that is not from the zx is the buell blast exhaust at the bottom (had to replace... damn vibrations!)

She’s sitting patiently for her exhaust can, coolant hose and a complete engine oil/water flush (my oil spill left me in a pinch so I had to improvise... not ideal) for new oil and engine ice (running water for now waiting on new hose).
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: WildCard
#51 ·
Exhaust and coolant hose FINALLY came in. What a wait that was. Anyways I have the exhaust on (sounds great with the DB Killer) and the new hose on (old one in my hand was too short). Side note I know I need to flush my system out (that was supposed to be clear water in the bottom of the pic) - am I crazy or is that a lot of dirtiness for only being in the engine for the rebuild project and a few spurts down the road? Maybe I just hadn’t cleaned out the passages quite like I thought I had? (Comparison exhaust pic added, more pics will get taken)
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Scumbag
#53 ·
That’s the thing, it’s a brand new radiator AND new thermostat and i don't remember seeing anything crazy dirty inside the head when I put it in. I also used distilled water from the store, not tap water.
 
#55 ·
Going to flush the system multiple times tomorrow when i get home. I’ll keep water in it until i get my new thermostat gasket in and then i’ll take that out with all the hoses to completely drain it before i throw the engine ice in.
 
#59 ·
Slowly working on a fix, wont really know what I can do until later this week when I start meticulously measuring all the parts. Worst case, I may buy a new 2nd gear input and output gear, get everything ISF treated and call it a day. Considering myself lucky too - I failed to realize in my reading that the piston rod bolts needed to be replaced because they stretch when torqued. Maybe that’s common sense for some of you old-timers but that was news to me.

Parts in/coming in
- New thermostat and head coolant gaskets
- all new bolts/nuts for the piston rods
- R&G exhaust sliders for the new can
- brand new, full EBC SRK clutch kit (friction plates, steel plates and heavy duty springs)

Hope to be on the right track soon - want this thing to be bullet proof. Only thing I have not done yet is a valve adjustment but I may wait till I’m out in Cali to start looking at that
 
#60 ·
It is a hell of a lot easier to do while the engine is already out of the frame!!!!!!!

At the very least you should get exact measurements and see where they are........... No idea why you wouldn't have done that when you were doing everything else ???

 
  • Like
Reactions: Strider
#63 · (Edited)
Okay so here’s what I’m looking at. First pic is the trans I put i to the bike - the dogs are worn on the front edge of every gear, whereas the second picture is my original trans with little/no wear on the dog edges. Checking a few more things out and will NOT be sending out the trans to get treated.
 

Attachments

#64 ·
That second picture looks to be in far better shape than the first.......

So that output shaft itself, what does that look like if as you said the nut that holds the sprocket on came loose......
 
#65 · (Edited)
I’ll get a pic of that too but it looks good - had a little bit of surface rust on the splines but cleaned up good and there is no issue with sprocket play or anything. Honestly i think that probably was more clutch related at this point (hence full clutch replacement).. even with a loose sprocket nut it wouldn't by jumping splines. I have a new sprocket nut and washer anyways and will be torqued and blue thread locked.
 
#66 ·
Quick update. Last three crankshaft bolts will be in tomorrow so looking forward to getting the engine back in soon. I bought a new (to me) gauge cluster and decided to finish my zzr fairing stay bracket (finally) since the old gauge was held on by zip ties. Essentially I'm having a bracket I made welded to the stay so the gauge clears the fairing and steering assembly. I cut off the old zzr gauge mounts to make room. Should be pretty solid!

PS I used the angled side of my Buell's old broken exhaust to give me the angle I needed for the gauge to clear the steering movement.
 

Attachments

#69 · (Edited)
May have reinforce slightly, depending on if it vibrates a lot or not. Either a supporting brace behind the cluster or the hole/punch technique. Either way, much better that what I had previously.

Crank bolts are in. Assembly will start soon and we'll see if the engine gets back in by this weekend. A few extra bits going on (R&G muffler savers, new grips and new throttle tube, upgraded clutch kit, all new trans bearings and gasket, new sprocket/clutch nuts, new speed sensor cable and choke cable, etc.). Should be solid. Also doing an oil treatment after a flush (claims made to reduce wear and slightly increase compression, figured I'd do a lower (100 mile) cycle of it and see how it works out). All that's left after this is to save for all new plastics. I have the rubber grommets for the fairings but will wait till I have new fairings to use them since I dont think they will hold well on my shit-tastic fairings.
 
#70 ·
Engine is in. Two days of bad weather means no flying means bike could be ready for a weekend ride. I'll be buttoning up the rest tonight and doing a coolant and oil flush. Pretty happy.
 

Attachments

#73 ·
Engine and carbs and such all connected up, water is in for now and oil will be added in the morning for her first start. Run for a lil while, drain the oil and water, and put new stuff in. Probably do a few water flushes before finishing with my coolant. In the mean time I threw on my R&G exhaust sliders. Engine/frame sliders/mod should be done after Some run time.
 

Attachments

#74 ·
This bike has really seen some better days, now i need to replace the mechanical seals inside the water pump because that's now leaking. Had it running and everything and now this. Honestly I cant think of anything else that can possibly go wrong now
 
#75 ·
Done for now, wont be completing the engine flush till my gaskets/seals arrive for the water/oil pump. So close!
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Strider
#76 ·
Finished assembling the waterpump and new gaskets. Triple cleaned the mechanical seals I bought and used Threebond to add to the new outer gaskets. If this leaks I honestly dont have a clues what to do, but I'm very confident.

Question for anyone who is around - I cant find a specific cure time for 1184 threebond, but I've heard an hour and I've heard 24. Cant find a reference, should I just play it safe and wait to ride till tomorrow? Thanks.
 

Attachments

#79 ·
Okay so i started it and no leaks from the case BUT IT IS STILL LEAKING FROM THE WEEP HOLE.

I ran it for 30-45min and it didnt get any better. New housing, new seals again, etc and still leaks. Im at a loss. It's ONLY through the weep hole and I cant fathom why. I'm going to pull it again tonight and look. I'll flip the ceramic piece, sand both sides a bit with 1200, clean with alcohol again, install to torque with a slight amount of coolant on it to prevent dry-start and go from there. I'm pissed. I'm riding tomorrow regardless. Im so done with this pump.

- if anyone has any suggestions let me know
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top